Replace a Shower Head
What You'll Need: A shower head Teflon mineral spirits or tape, rust/lime remover What It'll Cost: $5 to $7 to get a basic chrome shower head; up of $40 to get a high-end version (a Walmart) Everything You Can Save: $45 to well over $100 (per Angie's List) How Much Time It'll Take: 15 to 30 minutes How to Do It: Shower heads can be handheld adjusted, or both. None is very difficult or time consuming to install, though attention to detail is essential in all three cases. The basic procedure for replacing a shower head is: Loosen the headset with an adjustable wrench or pliers that are slip-joint and then discard. Use a solution, such as CLR, to eliminate calcification rust, and other debris out of the shower arm. Dry the arm around the threads. Apply Teflon tape to the threads and then press down to form a bind that is snug. Hand-screw the shower head that is new into the threads. Finish tightening with pliers or an adjustable wrench. Turn on the water and look for leaks. Tighten reapply or farther Teflon tape if leaks are present. To install a hybrid shower head with fixed and handheld components, you will have to screw in an extra bit -- the diverter that regulates water flow between the 2 heads. The approach is a little more time-consuming, and you will need to consult with the maker 's installation instructions to make certain that you're connecting the diverter properly, but it's not an order of magnitude more complicated, click here.Caulk a Tub
Everything You'll Need: A tube of caulk, plastic razor, mineral spirits, fine-threaded rag, painter's cassette, Magic Eraser or similar cleaning pad, scissors What It'll Cost: $5 to more than $30, depending on the size of the project and which provides you need to Purchase new Everything You Can SaveUpwards of $100, based on how big the project Long It'll Take: 60 The way to Do It: This task is easier than replacing a drain flange. It's the first real toilet repair job I tackled, long until I had an ounce of self-confidence in my DIY plumbing skills. I guarantee you can do it too -- all you need is some patience and a steady hand. Here's how to take action, adapted from This Old House: Purchase silicone or acrylic latex caulk. The former is harder to work with, but lasts longer; the latter is a lot easier to use, but shorter-lived. Use a plastic razor (not a regular razor blade) to cut off the old caulk. Eliminate lingering balls using a sterile pad or Magic Eraser, then complete the job using a nice rag soaked in mineral oil. Follow the directions on your caulking tube to prepare for application. You need scissors to cut on the tip . Lay down the tape on each side of the joint of painter . Use a damp rag to smooth the freshly caulk in a single fluid motion. Wipe away excess caulk as you proceed, taking good care to leave behind a uniform program. Without disturbing the caulk, remove the painter 's tape. Repeat the process that is smoothing. Wait for the caulk to heal completely before using the bathtub -- ideally, 24 hours.
Repair a Toilet
What You'll Need: Pliers, adjustable wrench, wire cutters, new flapper (optional), new float (optional), new fill valve (optional), vinegar or mineral spirits, toothbrush What It'll Cost: Up to $25, based on supplies and the equipment needed Everything You Can Save: Upwards of $100, depending on the nature of the project How Much Time It'll Require: 10 to 60 minutes How to Do It: If you're blessed, fixing your bathroom will cost nothing and take only a few minutes of your time. You may be in for an hours-long procedure of trial and error punctuated by sequential trips to the hardware store, In case you not lucky. Here to address three common issues that can cause your bathroom to operate, adapted from WikiHow: Flapper Problems: Faulty flappers are responsible for many, or even most, running toilets. First, turn off the water to the bathroom (locally if possible) and flush. Remove the lid and inspect the valve. When it warped or deteriorated, it done for; go to the shop, purchase a new one, and install it according to producer 's instructions. When it is not forming a tight seal since the string attaching it to the flush lever is too brief or long, fix the chain accordingly (using wire cutters to shorten the string if needed ). If mineral buildup appears to be the culprit, remove and submerge it in vinegar or mineral spirits to dissolve the residue. Scrub then replace and clean with a toothbrush. Float Issues: The next most likely cause is a float that is faulty. Floats come in 2 flavors: cup and chunk floats sticks. In either scenario, an float may result in higher-than-normal water levels, which promote running. Examine the overflow tube of the bathroom -- your water level is too high if it taking on water. Use pliers to turn your float's controller until the water level stabilizes at least an inch below the overflow tube. Monitor the water levels and fix accordingly. Fill Valve Issues: This is definitely the most vexing and expensive of those three issues. Close off the bathroom 's water, flush, and disconnect the service line (you'll need pliers or an adjustable wrench). Completely dry the inside of the tank using a rag or sponge. Remove with your wrench, bring it into the hardware shop, and buy a replacement. Follow the instructions of the maker . Flush to check.
With rented or borrowed equipment, your DIY soul, and replicated how-to movie viewings, you can handle these home plumbing repair and replacement projects by yourself.
Change or Reseal a Tub Drain
What You'll Need: A brand new drain stopper and flange (optional), a new drain gasket (optional), mineral spirits, plumber's putty or silicone, a drain removal tool, an adjustable wrench (optional), a flathead screwdriver (optional) What It'll Price: $15 to $20 to get a basic stopper and flange meeting (a Grainger Industrial Supply -- including stopper) What You Can Save: $200 or more (a HomeWyse) Long It'll Require: 30 The way to Do It: This how-to covers just the drain flange (basket) and stopper. It doesn't address the drain , nor the piping that connects your sewer line and your drain. Replacing these items may necessitate putting a hole through your bathroom wall moving your tub, or tearing your shower . I've accommodated these measures from PlumbingSupply.com's guide on removing and replacing a drain flange. Unscrew your drain stopper and set aside (if not replacement ). Add your drain removal instrument (drain essential or smart dumbbell) to the drain and rotate counterclockwise before the drain flange pops out. If the removal tools don't work, use a hair dryer to warm the drain flange and soften the plumber's putty or silicone holding the flange and base in place. Try again after a couple of minutes. Wash the drain hole and surrounding regions. Pat dry, then allow to air dry. Examine the shoe gasket. If the rubber is obviously worn out or it doesn't seem to be sealing closely against the shoe any longer, use a flathead screwdriver to pop it out. Replace the gasket if warranted. Press it firmly against the twist. Apply plumber's putty at a ring around the underside of the new drain flange -- sufficient to form a complete seal with the bathtub. Put the flange into the drain hole and screw in the threads of the drain shoe . Hand-tighten for your first few rotations, then use a drain removal application to tighten (clockwise) until there's just a little slack left. Use an adjustable wrench to the final quarter-turn. Don't overtighten -- that crack the tub or may squeeze the gasket out of place. Use mineral spirits to remove the putty of plumber from around the drain. Insert replacement stopper or the , if needed. Caution: make certain to apply a liberal quantity of silicone or plumber's putty to a replacement flange. Inadequate coverage means flows, which could wreak havoc on your bathroom floors -- not to mention that the ceilings and walls below. My dining room ceilings and walls lasted countless dollars in completely preventable water damage since the last owner (or a contractor he hired) skimped on plumber's putty from the upstairs bathtub.Manually Unclog a Slow or Stopped Main Drain Line
Everything You'll Need: A socket wrench, adjustable wrench, or pliers (optional), a handheld auger or snake What It Cost: $30 to more than $100, based on quality and the type of gear used What You Can Save: $200 to greater than $5,000, depending on the type and extensiveness of job forestalled How Long It'll Require: 15 to 30 minutes (may require repeat ) The way to Do It: drain lines or Slow can hit anywhere, however they're especially common in older homes dogged by years or years of poor plumbing maintenance. Unclogging a drain line that is stopped or slow demands patience and elbow grease. Here's what you Want to do: Find the most convenient entry point for your home drain line. Ideally, you utilize an opening. Use a suitable tool. You might require a socket stage if the nut is rusted on (a common problem in older homes). Hold snake or a auger into the drain. Follow any clogs you encounter to be broken up by the maker 's use instructions. Having a snake, repeated back-and-forth movement usually does the trick. Flush the drain using water to clean any residual debris and confirm the drain is currently shifting . Repeat as required. If the clog persists, call a plumbing service that provides camera instructions that are free to pinpoint composition and the location of clogs along your drain line. They give you a hard sell on costly solutions, like employing an impermeable lining or replacing your drain line entirely. Refuse, politely. Purchase a longer auger or snake and begin again. Caution: Your ability to unclog a drain line that is slow or stopped has limits. For instance, root intrusion is common in houses with trees and drain lines. It a battle, Though it potential to clear drain lines -- the roots behave like drain grabs, forming clogs as time passes and trapping debris. To get a solution that lasts years or weeks, rather than weeks, you will need to telephone in a specialist. They use roots to cut and remove and related detritus. Based on the extent of the issue, you taking a look at a $300 to $600 bill for this particular work, but it shelling out $10,000 or more on lining or a drain line.
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